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Marine Battery Maintenance
Lead-acid Batteries used on boats present several hazards to owners interested performing their own maintenance. Lead is a well known toxic heavy metal. It shouldn't be a danger unless the battery case is broken. The electrolyte used in the battery composed of sulfuric acid and water. Sulfuric acid will severely burn eyes and skin. Goggles and acid resistant gloves should be worn while servicing the fluid levels of conventional lead-acid batteries. Charging a battery produces explosive hydrogen gas. Avoid introducing sources of ignition near the battery and provide good ventilation. Wash hands after working around batteries.
Visual Inspection - Marine battery maintenance begins with a visual inspection:
Look at the exterior of the battery. Look for cracks in the case, dirt or corrosion on terminals, and leaking electrolyte. Batteries with any external damage must be replaced and recycled
Check battery cables and connections, looking for any damaged components. Cables need to be clean, insulation intact and not be frayed. Connections need to be clean and tight
Tighten battery connections to manufacturer's standards
Open Circuit and Specific Gravity Testing - External visual inspection doesn't tell the whole story of battery condition. Testing battery open circuit voltage and specific gravity of its electrolyte give a more accurate picture of the battery's health. The electrolyte can only be checked on flooded electrolyte batteries such as Hp Pavilion ze1210 Battery, Hp Pavilion ZT1000 Battery and Hp Pavilion ZT1100 Battery.
Specific Gravity Test - Specific gravity describes the density of a fluid as compared to water. A number higher than one means the liquid is denser than water. A hydrometer purchased from a parts store is used to test specific gravity of the electrolyte.
Do not add water prior to testing
Fill and empty the hydrometer with electrolyte from the cell to be tested two or three times before pulling out a sample
There is a scaled float inside the hydrometer. Fill the tube with electrolyte high enough to freely float the scaled float
Record the value from the scale and record it. Return the electrolyte to its cell. Repeat the process for each battery cell
Replace vent caps for each cell and ensure the battery case is clean
Correct scale readings for temperature. A chart will be printed on the float or come with the hydrometer
Reading between cells should be similar and be at or above 1.277 ± .007
If readings are below 1.277 ± .007, fully charge the battery and retest it
A battery with a specific gravity below 1.277 ± .007 may be old and near the end of its useful life. Other contributing factors can be excessive discharge, loss of electrolyte, or a bad battery cell
Open Circuit Voltage Test - Accurate testing depends on the battery being left idle with no charging or discharging for at least 6 hours with 24 hours being preferable.
Disconnect the battery cables
Measure voltage using an accurate DC voltmeter
Compare the value with a state of charge chart
Abbreviated Charge Chart
100% 12.73 volts
80% 12.50 volts
60% 12.24 volts
40% 11.96 volts
20% 11.66 volts
Electrolyte Levels for Flooded Batteries – On batteries that allow access to the electrolyte, the fluid should cover the interior lead plates. Water should be added after fully charging a battery. Check electrolyte levels at least once a month. There is a fill well visible under the vent cap. Fill to within an 1/8 inch of the bottom of the well. Avoid overfilling the battery. Try to use distilled water for servicing a battery. Ensure vent caps are tightened after checking fluid levels. Never add acid to a battery.
Cleaning - Keeping batteries clean helps with making external inspections. Cracks and leaks will be more visible. Wear acid resistant gloves and goggles while cleaning a battery.
Check that vent caps are secure
Clean the top of the battery with a cloth and a mixture of baking soda and water
Rinse off the battery with fresh water
Clean terminal connections and battery post with a cleaning tool sold for this purpose
Place a thin coat of petroleum jelly on terminal and connectors
Keep the battery location clean and dry
About the Author
How To Choose T5 Lighting For Aquariums
When starting the set up of aquarium systems, the first and most important equipment you'll need to buy is the tank. By determining its size and depth, you will also be determining the type of aquarium you will have as well as the capacity of any equipment you will purchase. Hence, making the right decision starting from the purchase of the tank itself is very important prior to any decisions made.
Following is the top things you should think about when buying a tank.
Size and depth Is it small or is it big? It is deep or shallow? The size of your tank would affect the species of plants or fish you could place in it. For example, a shallow tank would not allow space for corals and a small tank would contain only a limited amount of aquatic life. Ideally, if you are a beginner, then you should start off with a small tank.
Material You can choose either plate glass or plexiglass as material for your tank, depending on your preferences. Take note though that although plate glass is hard and makes for great viewing, especially with T5 lighting for aquariums, it can be very heavy to lift and transport. On the other hand, plexiglass is much more prone to scratches over time.
Location Where exactly would you install the aquarium? Aquarium systems need sufficient space for attachments like pumps, filters, protein skimmers and lighting. Hence, the area covered is not limited to the size of the tank but a few more feet outside that.
After considering these factors, then its time to purchase your tank as well as accompanying equipment for it. Keep in mind that aquarium systems may thrive or die depending on the quality of equipment you decide to use. Hence, try to get branded and trusted names like Coralife aquarium lighting, protein skimmers or hydrometers to ensure that your aquarium would have a long life.
need A LOT of help with VERY difficult physics question?
A hydrometer is a device used to measure the density of a liquid. It is a cylindrical tube weighted at one end, so that it floats with the heavier end downward. The tube is contained inside a large "medicine dropper," into which the liquid is drawn using the squeeze bulb (see the drawing). For use with your car, marks are put on the tube so that the level at which it floats indicates whether the liquid is battery acid (more dense) or antifreeze (less dense). The hydrometer has a weight of W = 5.93 × 10-2 N and a cross-sectional area of A = 7.48 × 10-5 m2. How far from the bottom of the tube should the mark be put that denotes (a) battery acid (ρ = 1280 kg/m3) and (b) antifreeze (ρ = 1073 kg/m3)?
CSA = .748cm^2.
Acid = 1.28g/cc., and antifreeze = 1.073g/cc.
Mass of float = (.0593/9.8) = .00605kg (6.05g).
To displace 6.05g. of battery acid, it will displace a volume of (6.05/1.28) = 4.7266cc.
To displace 6.05g. od antifreeze, it will displace a volume of (6.05/1.073) = 5.638cc.
Battery acid mark = (4.7266/.748) = 6.3cm. from bottom.
Antifreeze mark = (5.638/.748) = 7.54cm. from bottom.
Heavy Hydrometer 2009 Homebrew Competition
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